Hello, lovelies! Get ready for Skincare by Jae. Obvious disclaimer I am not a dermatologist or esthetician. I am an enthusiast who has worked in the Beauty Industry and scrolls way too much on Youtube and TikTok. Join me as I break down some of the most common questions and concerns I get asked about. A friendly reminder if you haven’t put on your SPF today now is the time! If you have any other questions remember to dm us @inomniapod on Instagram.
UVA- Aging. Those rays are longer and go through gray skies and glass which is why it is imperative to protect arms, hands, neck while driving. These are the one responsible for tanning…. And radiation.
UVB: burning. Those are the rays that burn the top layers of skin and that correlates with the SPF (Sun protection factor) on the bottle.
SPF is not the amount of time it protects. SPF is a measure of how much solar energy (UV radiation) is required to produce sunburn on protected skin (i.e., in the presence of sunscreen) relative to the amount of solar energy required to produce sunburn on unprotected skin. As the SPF value increases, sunburn protection increases.
Chemical (oxybenzone, octinoxate, avobenzone)
Chemical sunscreen absorbs into the skin and then absorbs UV rays, converts the rays into heat, and releases them from the body.
Physical (Titanium dioxide and Zinc).
Physical sunblock sits on top of the skin and reflects the sun’s rays. So apply. And then yes reapply. And apply when you’re not going outside.
Physical: actual things to scrub on face, do not use microbeads!!! Bad for planet and face, no walnut scrubs can scrat leave holes beneath skin, if in a pinch and want to really clean use a little baking soda and water
Chemical: collection of intense acids to exfoliate dead skin cells and also sometimes remove an upper layer of living skin cells. They’re particularly good at penetrating multiple layers of the skin, affecting a deep cleanse.
AHAs are water soluble so only work on the skin’s surface. preferred for normal to dry, sun-damaged skin, due to their ability to enhance natural moisturizing factors within skin AHAs have also been proven effective in reducing the visible signs of sun damage, including crepe-y skin and wrinkles. (Glycolic unclog dead skin, exfoliate, even texture, prep for other ingredients, even skin tone, Lactic Acid: hydrate, exfoliate, brighten cell turnover)
BHA works on the skin’s surface and deep inside the pore; it’s oil soluble, so it’s most often preferred for normal to oily skin prone to bumps, clogs, blemishes, and enlarged pores. BHA also has natural skin-calming properties, so it’s gentle enough for skin that’s sensitive or prone to redness or rosacea. This well-rounded, to “unglue” the bonds holding dull, dead skin on the surface. skin naturally sheds its spent cells. So, although you won’t actually see your skin exfoliating, you’ll soon see (and feel) the smoother, younger-looking skin. (BHA: salicylic)
Enzyme: Enzyme peels are a lot gentler than chemical peels. Enzyme peels use fruit enzymes that are taken from many fruits, including pomegranates, papaya, pumpkins, pineapples, and more.
The enzymes contained in these ingredients perform a gentler cleansing action. They still break up dead skin cells, but they do so without as much shredding or burning as a chemical exfoliants.
Ph balancing: When your skin is balanced it is working optimally. Remember skin is the largest organ in the body. On the body? An unbalanced ph can lead to wrinkles, inflammation, aging, sensitivity, acne, dry skin.Prebiotics are substances that help your skin naturally make the exact probiotics it needs, proving to be vitally important in balancing skin’s microbiome. All assisting with a balanced pH
Saccharomyces or galactosides: normalize skin’s microbiome by curbing the proliferation of microorganisms that can trigger signs of impaired
Fermented things (age defying, deliver nutrients antioxidants to aid skin cellular renewal)
Smaller molecules penetrate deeper, carry other products
Vitamin C: brighten tighten lighten Ferulic acid: strengthen vitamin C, stabilize are vulnerable to destabilizing when exposed to air and light. That means if you want to reap the reward of your antioxidant-enriched treatments, only choose those that are packaged in opaque tubes, air-restrictive bottles, or pumps that help keep their ingredients stable.
Vitamin E: One of the most well-known and researched antioxidants for the body and for skin. Vitamin E occurs naturally in human skin, but can become depleted due to constant environmental exposure in the absence of sun protection.
Hyaluronic Acid: maintain moisture level, raisin> grape, bind moisture barrier
Naturally in skin, draw in moisture
Retinol: cell turnover speed up (Vitamin A) 28 day turnover, but can be up to 40 as we age
Niacinamide: quell inflammation, brighten, antioxidant benefits (protect skin barrier), offers protection from UV-induced inflammation, improve large pores, fine lines, uneven skin tone, dullness, weakness
Antioxidants: help shield pollution, stress, sun, lack of sleep, mattify oily skin
Salicylic Acid( degunk pores) BHA, exfoliant, penetrate deep into pore lining and surface, reduce breakout white/blackheads
Benzyl peroxide: acne, penetrate hair follicle reach bacteria and kill them
Carrier oil:(think: coconut, argan, jojoba) strong penetrative abilities that make them super-effective on their own, as well as allow them to carry botanically derived essential oils
Castor: Vegetable oil derived from the castor bean whose main fatty acid is ricinoleic acid. It is used in cosmetics as an emollient, though its unique property is that when dry it forms a solid film that can have water-binding properties. disinfectant with antibacterial properties that is also helpful for acne-prone skin. Castor oil can also enhance the absorption of other cosmetic ingredients.
Rosehip: Rosehip oil is a great source of skin-calming phytosterols plus several fatty acids, primarily linoleic and linolenic acids. Both of these acids help protect and replenish the skin’s vital barrier. Rosehip seed oil naturally contains vitamin C, but much of this vitamin is destroyed during processing. vitamin C and vitamin A
Marula: This oil is extracted from the marula fruit of Southern Africa and contains four times more vitamin C than an orange.
Moringa Seed Oil: A non-fragrant plant oil that contains several antioxidants, including zeatin, quercetin, and vitamins A, C, and E. The oil is also a very good source of oleic acid, a monounsaturated fatty acid that can replenish skin and help guard against moisture loss.
Coconut oil medium-chain fatty acids, also known as medium-chain triglycerides. Used by itself as a moisturizer, coconut oil’s effectiveness is similar to that of mineral oil.
Cold Pressed: Cold pressed oils to have high nutritive content than the oils that are extracted from the conventional heat extraction method. The major nutrients extracted from vegetable and seed oils are usually – zinc, magnesium, iron, and calcium.
Grapeseed: Grapeseed oil has a high content of vitamin E, one of the reasons it’s such a good antioxidant. It also contains several phenolic antioxidants (like resveratrol). anti-inflammatory to soothe skin
Jojoba: fatty acids, jojoba oil can also provide topical skin-soothing benefits. Its texture is similar to the oil (sebum) human skin produces, one more reason it’s a brilliant ingredient for dry skin—and potentially problematic for those with oily skin prone to clogged pores and breakouts. Note that jojoba wax is considered more of an issue for breakout-prone skin than jojoba oil
Glycerine: Glycerin is a skin-replenishing and skin-restoring ingredient, meaning it is a substance found naturally in skin, helping to establish normal balance and hydration. It’s one of the many substances in skin that helps maintain a healthy look and feel, defending against dryness and working to maintain skin’s moisture level. Essentially, glycerin is a master at hydration and works best when combined with other replenishing and emollient ingredients.
-hydrocolloid: designed to heal wounds. They help skin heal from the inside out, enhancing the natural healing process. An acne patch absorbs excess fluids surrounding a pimple, such as pus or oil.
I pledge myself to the pod loyal I'll always be a p to start a D at the end and an O sitting in between Hello and welcome back to In Omnia Partus. I'm Jae like the letter and alas The day has come It breaks my heart to say this but my co anchor my fellow pod squad member and my dear friend is not here with us today but don't you worry your little nose she will be back next week better than ever. We wanted to do our regular maintenance of running the ship ourselves. We are kayaks hear us roar. We are overachievers who love to put too much on our plate, then instantly regret it. But that's why you come back each week, fingers crossed. And if you're just finding us Hello, thank you for tuning in today. Today's topic is one that I'm very very very very very passionate about. Since we've already come to agree that in fact, glitter is a color we get to discuss my second favorite topic skincare it may seem overwhelming on the surface. And it is and it just gets more complicated The more you dive in, but don't worry, I will try to keep you on some sort of path through pretty packaging and things that seem like they should taste good boiler or they don't know keep your hands and feet in the vehicle and stand the 24 karat gold road. Yes, there is 24 karat gold and skincare. It has firming properties. Obvious disclaimer, I'm only a skincare fan who loves to Google and watch video of people going over their skincare routines and break down ingredients. I am not a doctor and you should consult a professional or do independent research rather than just listening to what I say I will link resources that have more technical professional experience that I trust and feel free to reach out I'm more than happy to share other resources now. Where to begin. Let's start at the end. Of course the best of the best the most award winning trophy earning bragging rights items on the market. You heard me right I didn't say anything. Now I promise I'm not doing you dirty like not telling you where I got my top. Typically they come from Nordstrom skincare is very personal. So personal that I've gotten hives just from switching to the generic bread of lotion from the name bread, same ingredients, same order, probably the same manufacturer ended with me in hives, different products, look, feel and react with everyone. And that's why the beauty industry is worth hundreds of billions of dollars. And thanks to jameela Jamil. I recently learned that 80% of the market is women, not just the beauty market, the whole market purchasers of basically all items, women we are smart, capable humans who will drink the magic water of youthful glowy perfect skin if it existed. Clearly it doesn't those skincare and beauty brands put huge budgets into differentiating products so you buy them all even when they overlap. In summary, there are no quote bests there are what works. And now I will get into my skincare basic breakdown. What products are a must products that you're actually going to continue to use. In my humble opinion for morning, you just really need a sunscreen. It's better to prevent than to treat and at night you need a cleanser and a moisturizer. Let's start talking about sunscreen. As someone who's allergic to the Sun Also known as having a photo sensitivity, I've learned a decent amount. The first thing is you must must must use a sunscreen that is broad spectrum. A quick little tip on knowing the difference between UVA and UVB UVA. A stands for aging. Those rays are longer and go through gray skies and glass which is why it is imperative to protect arms, hands and necks
especially while driving UVA rays are responsible for tanning and radiation. So think about that next before you go way out on the sun or go into a tanning bed. I think about weighing the pros and cons between learning to self tan and then we have UVB v stands for burning. Those rays are the ones that burn the top layers of skin and correlate with the SPF on the bottle. SPF stands for sun protection factor SPF is a measure of how much solar energy UVB radiation is required to produce a sunburned unprotected skin, ie in the presence of sunscreen relative to the amount of solar energy required to produce a sunburn on unprotected skin. And a little fun fact, the SPF number doesn't mean a whole lot properly applied SPF 50 blocks 98% of UVB rays SPF 100 blocks 99 So is it a little bit better? Yeah. Is it worth the extra money they charge you because of the SPF has double Nope. And even SPF 30 if applied correctly, still in the high 90s of effectiveness so don't let them trick you. Now what type of sunscreen should I get? Excellent question. There are two main types of sunscreen chemical or oxybenzone are innate avobenzone and physical sunscreens, titanium dioxide and chemical sunscreens absorbed into the skin then absorbed the UV rays convert the race into heat and released from the body. This sunscreens sit on top of the skin and reflect the sun's rays. So if you're using a physical sunscreen, you can go out in the sun as soon as you apply it. If you choose to get a chemical sunscreen, you will need to wait 20 to 25 minutes for the sunscreen to react with your skin. So what properly protects you now? Which one should I pick? It's really up to you. The main downside about chemical sunscreens is they're known to be harmful to reefs and or other ocean life. So maybe we don't use those if you're going to scuba dive or snorkel on the ocean or anywhere where there's creatures living physical sounds good, on the other hand, is fine for the environment fine for you typically better for people with sensitive skin. However, it can leave a white cast, so maybe don't use it for weddings or other things where you would be terrified if you like a ghost in photos. Editing Jay from the future coming in to just also add that people have deeper collections, even medium collections and don't have the privilege of being able to wear physical sunscreen. As the white cast is noticeable even under makeup. There are some tinted ones but the range is still not enough that it's inclusive to all people. So hopefully the beauty industry can work on solutions for that problem. Thank you cleanser, ideally you'd cleanse a day and night but at least that night to get off all the sunscreen, dirt debris from the day if you have dry skin, look for things that say hydrating or meant for dry skin, oily skin look for things that say oil free or for oily skin combination. Same thing and if you have normal skin, I'm utterly jealous and you can just click off the pod right now then moisturizer Oh is the same rule as cleanser. If you have dry skin, it's better to use a cream or lotion and if you have oily skin I recommend a gel and if you're a normal, why are you still listening only 90% kidding. That is the bare bones the essential start with that if you can do those three steps even in a pandemic, then you deserve a gold star and five minutes of mindless social media scrolling. Heck make it 10 now time for graduation. If you'd like to do as the Romans do, or in this case, the South Koreans let's get into a skincare routine and not to make this podcast two hours long. I'm only gonna do a nighttime skincare routine. That's right ladies and gentlemen, there's a full day and nighttime routine step one first ones typically this is oil or a bomb. The main reason to do this is to get off all of that dirt debris oil that's been on your face throughout the day. And using the principle of like dissolving Lake balms and oils typically can dissolve makeup, I makeup waterproof makeup lash glue foundation much better than any makeup wipe
or my cell or water I've ever used. So an oil cleanser is the way to go. Even if you have oily skin I recommend using an oil cleanser. Now I know it might be a little bit more of a hassle than to use a makeup wipe but a few reasons to not use makeup wipes one they're not sustainable. You need at least three to take off your makeup one just for mascara and then you throw them away to a lot of them are typically pretty fragrant and you don't want that touching your skin and clogging your pores and making you more sensitive and three people talk pretty hard. I know it doesn't feel like it but eventually those are all going to be signs of aging and we don't want to age any faster than we have to up to the water race concert the double cleanse if you have dry skin stick to cream or a hydrating gentle cleanser, oily gel or foaming foaming cleansers foaming cleansers are great for people with oily skin because the small bubbles actually clean deeper than non foaming cleanser is because the bubbles molecules take the cleanser deeper into the skin however this can be a little stripping for dry skin but you know your face so if you love a foaming cleanser with dry skin Have at it just remember no microbeads you know what brands I'm talking about? You know the proximate hug mouth just don't go there normal skin use whatever funds are you found that works The main thing for all skin types is stick away from fragrance fragrance can irritate sensitive skin and cause breakouts and the smell definitely isn't worth having bad skin. Rub gently what your hands and or your face or rub in small circular motions. Then what sit on your skin for 15 to 30 seconds. Let the cleanser really get into your skin before washing it off. Now that's three exfoliation. I'd recommend this two to four times a week depending on your skin type, but you know your skin best and the type of exfoliator you use does make a difference. There are three main categories physical exfoliants are things that actually scrub your face. Like I already said don't use microbeads don't use walnut scrub. walnut scrubs can make grow tear your skin from layers you can't even see yet so you might not be on anything on the surface but it doesn't mean it's not damaging your skin. If you really need a cheap fast, good physical cleanser especially for the nose. I love using baking soda and a little bit of water, make it into a paste scrub the heck out of it. You'd really be surprised how well that exfoliate chemical exfoliants are a collection of intense acids that exfoliate dead skin cells and also sometimes remove the upper layer of living skin cells. They're good at penetrating multiple layers of the skin affecting a deep cleanse. There are two main types you might have heard of and seen on bottles. First we have ajs alpha hydroxy acids these are water soluble oils and only work on the skin surface. These are better for normal to dry skin a tres have the ability to enhance natural moisturizing factors within the skin. They are mostly known for reducing the signs of sun damage crepey skin and wrinkles. Some popular ones are glycolic acid and lactic acid, then there are ba G's BJs work on the skin surface as well as the deep within the poor and it's oil soluble so it's most preferred for normal to oily skin skin prone to bumps, clogs, blemishes and enlarged pores. BJs also have common properties typical ba J's you've probably heard of the main one, the mother of all ba Jays as salicylic acid you won't see your skin actually exploiting with chemical exfoliant, but it will feel smoother and walk younger. And lastly we have enzyme exfoliant. These are a lot gentler and chemical exfoliants enzyme exfoliant and try saying that three times fast use fruit enzymes that are taken away from fruits including pomegranates for pie pumpkins, pineapples and others. The enzymes perform a gentle cleansing action, they still break up your dead skin cells but they do so without as much shedding or burning as chemical exfoliants. Step Four. toner we're almost halfway there. Good job for everyone who has made it this far. Why is toner important in the past it's known to be super astringent and stripping of this again, however, that's no longer the case a lot of toners are actually used to help replenish calm soothe the skin after washing and help open up pores for future steps of the routine. However, if you do have more oily skin, don't fret There are also exfoliating toners that will help reduce plaquette size sebum production and use some of those lovely chemical exfoliants we explained about in step number three the other main great thing toners can do is help balance your Ph. Why does your pH matter when your skin is balanced? It is working optimally good is the largest organ in the body on the body and the body and unbalanced pH can we two wrinkles, inflammation aging skin sensitivity, acne and dry skin toners can assist in balancing the gut and bacteria in your skin. Some toners have prebiotics that help your skin make the exact probiotics that needs to balance your skin's microbiome. Now let's get into one of those ingredients that everyone talks about and you associate with Toner witchhazel although it is plant derived and has antioxidants, it has a very high amount of tannins, which is a very potent antioxidant that can make your skin more sensitive, the more you use it and also with witchhazel toners. They dilute it with alcohol not the good kind of fatty alcohol we'll get into in the moisturizing section but the stripping dry astringent alcohols which are not good for your skin, and unfortunately it is unknown how much alcohol is used in the dilution process of making these witchhazel toners. I'd avoid it unless this is the product that saved your skin and it's your ride or die. Next Step five,
we have essence what is an essence he got really popular in the states recently but it's been very popular in Korea probably for decades. Honestly, it's normally based in saccharomyces Urkel act asides, which are fermented things. It's fermented ingredients that help with that microbiome and that pH balance that we spoke about with toners. Those two ingredients normalize the microbiome by curbing the proliferation of micro organisms that can trigger signs of heaven paired something apparently I cut it off, we'll never know additionally, essences have smaller molecules that can penetrate deeper and carry other products with them. So anything you use after your essence will go deeper into your skin that I would have without they're also very hydrating and moisturizing when I started using one changed my skincare routine, highly, highly recommend your we ones that do come out of Asia because they've been doing it longer and have better technology. Now we have stuff either four or six depending masks masks are fun, I would recommend 1123 times a week depending on what kind of mask you're using and the kind of lifestyle you have. And for those on the go multi masking is a thing which is where you can put like a clay mask or your oily a hydrating one where your dry gel one where you need a little cooling one will be great kind of the main ones are clay or we're going to be more detoxifying sheet masks have no long term benefits and frankly, the differentiation between the different kinds of things they do I have not seen a major difference and I've used a bunch of them. They're all going to temporarily hydrate and kind of infuse your skin which is why for a more hydrating mask. You'd want to do it after your exfoliate in replacement of your toner and essence but if you're using a more clay detoxifying mask, you would want to do it typically after your elbow cleanse before you exfoli and then continue on with your tone or essence and then we get into the fun part which is step six to your arms. Yay. Everyone's favorite part. There's a bunch of serums small molecules deep into the skin have a bunch of great benefits. We've all seen serums probably a bunch of advertised to you rather than going through like what a serum is small molecules hydrate focus on one or two ingredients. I'm just going to go through some ingredients that I know we've all seen maybe don't know exactly what they do. So let's start with vitamin C The BLT vitamin C brighten, lightens and tightens fun little way to remember it. Additionally, a lot of times with vitamin C's you will see for roloc acid This is an ingredient that helps to stabilize and strengthen vitamin C. Vitamin C is vulnerable to destabilize and when exposed to air and light meaning if you want the full reward of the antioxidant and rich treatment only use those that are packaged in opaque tubes, restricted air bottles or pumps that keep their ingredients stable inside or powders Always be aware of a light bottle of vitamin C the efficacy is not there. My next magical ingredient vitamin antioxidant is vitamin E. Vitamin E naturally occurs in the human body but can be depleted due to the environmental exposures in the absence of sun protection. Again sunscreen Game Changer vitamin E is also known to be very hydrating. Speaking of hydrating hyaluronic acid hyaluronic acid is magic and helps you maintain your moisture level drop in moisture also known as being a humectant and we all naturally have it already in our skin. The big thing with hyaluronic acid is think it plumps a reason to a grape. There are different molecule sizes which is sometimes why you'll see triple hyaluronic acid three layers because they go to different layers of the skin and deliver hydration throughout all of them. Next we have retinol retinol is a strong form of vitamin A it speeds up cell turnover. Now a typical cell or wire if skin turns over about every 28 days but as we age it gets closer and closer to 40 days with slower cell turnover. You're not gonna see his rolled results as fast that's when you're kind of going to see wrinkles cake Enos semen production and acne all this stuff we don't want to see so retinol helps speed up the process of that when you use a retinol you must must must must must must must use a sunscreen or you will look like you're peeling which is not cute. retinol is great for very oily skin or for any wrinkles because when it speeds up the skin tone the cell turnover process you get to the fresh youthful young glowy skin faster. The next ingredient we have is nice in a mine it's a very fun buzzword over the past few years niacin amide quells inflammation brightens the skin has protects the skin barrier offers protection from UV induce inflammation, improves pore size finalize uneven skin tones, dullness and weakness. Basically everyone probably should have something nice tonight in their life because it's magic and then we have antioxidants. A lot of these vitamins are antioxidants. You see antioxidants on everything like blueberries. What does it mean for skincare, antioxidants help shield pollution, stress,
sun lack of sleep, and they can help mattify oily skin antioxidants are magical, which is why we ingest them in smoothies and use them on our skin. Then we have the two main ingredients for acne salicylic acid which will help D gunk your pores at the BHA and exfoliant and penetrates deep into the lining of your pores reduces breakouts, blackheads and whiteheads and benzoyl peroxide this penetrates the hair follicles and reaches the bacteria to kill them which is awesome really sounds like superheroes I could recommend which of these ingredients to try specifically but again it's about your perfect cocktail. You can read things about ones you shouldn't insured us together things that will be the best again very personal. The main thing is if you're using vitamin C or retinol, you have to pair them with a sunscreen if you do not you're going to see the opposite effects vitamin C when it's helping to lighten your skin if you do not use the sunscreen with it, it will actually darken your spots which nobody wants and with retinal you appeal like a dang snake use sunscreen. Thank you. Now step seven oils now One could think such as myself who has a relatively oily combination skin I would never use an oil here's where you're wrong something that I recently learned well not for sale recently anymore but that I learned I'm pretty sure it was through one of the skincare queens I'll have on YouTube Jackie I know who also has very oily skin she even powers well for putting her foundation on which is how you know someone's oily she talked about using oils and oil cleansers about how sometimes when you have very dry skin, you produce more oil to compensate for that. So when you actually hydrate your skin properly, your skin actually can help self regulate moisturise within. We will have my lovely co host Angela give her a little anecdote of how I explained this to her maybe three, maybe four years ago took it to heart clearly because one of the four workers holder four years later I got the six week Oh my God, look at all these new products and hydrating things I'd never knew how dry skin I had speech. It is possible it is true. If you think you have extremely oily skin, you might actually have extremely dry skin that needs more hydration in it and it will start producing the oil food for thought some oils you have to choose from our castor oil. It is vegetable derived from the castor bean which is a fatty acid in rest, rinse and Ola. No lead acid. I am not a scientist as we've already gone over. It's used as an amoliant that when it's dry forms a solid film that can have water binding properties disinfected with antibacterial properties of it is helpful for acne prone skin castor oil can also enhance the absorption of other cosmetic products. Next we have rose hip which is a great source of calming properties several fatty acids primarily lentil like and lintel when Nick acids both of these acids help protect our opponents the skins vital skin barrier rose hip seed oil naturally contains vitamin C but much of this vitamin is destroyed during the process next Marula oil there are a bunch of fancy brands with this one on there are a bunch of fancy brands that have Marula oil. This oil is extracted from the Maru fruit of Southern Africa and contains four times more vitamin C than an orange back to that brightening typing and lightning and those wonderful antioxidants next maringa seed oil maringa seed oil is a non fragrant plant that contains several antioxidants including Xavi quercetin, vitamin A E and C all of what we talked about such as retinol, vitamin C vitamin E yall already got this this oil is very good source of oleic acid which is a monosaturated fatty acid that can replenish the skin and guard against moisture loss all things which we love coconut oil is a medium chain fatty acid also known as a medium chain triglyceride used by itself is a moisturizer coconut oil effectiveness is similar to that of a mineral oil. Now here's what I'm gonna say about coconut oil buying the coconut oil at the grocery store is not the same as a cosmetic grade coconut oil the process in which they do it typically there's a process of cold pressed oils made for skincare they have higher new treated value and typically stay in their more natural form as opposed to when you use heat and so if you're using cold pressed coconut oil you're better but I would not recommend the typical jar you would use for like oil pulling or in your baking on your face because those can clog pores and might not be the best.
Next we have grapeseed oil grapeseed oil has a high concentration of vitamin E those very great antioxidants and it has several phenolic antioxidants like reserver tall which is anti inflammatory last but certainly not least, we have hobo oil, which has fatty acids can provide topical skin soothing benefits its structure similar to oil serum that we naturally have which is why it's great for dry skin. It also can help oily skin who's who are prone to clogged pores and breakouts. Now step eight moisture is one of my freaking MVPs again going back to the basic the thicker, more hydrating if you put on a little too much moisturizer don't you fret I'm going to go through some fun tools you can use afterward to help have that absorb it will eventually absorb and you can use like a sleeping mask because your skin is hard at work while you're sleeping and dries itself out. So maybe a little extra moisturizer at night. not such a bad thing.
Press it into your skin. Do not rub rub or tug causes wrinkles and never forget your neck and decolletage. Some ingredients you might see in a moisturizer are Sarah mites those are naturally occurring long chains of fat are the major components of the skin's outer layer kin inhibits water and movement and controls loss via its structure which has a unique composition of 50% ceramides 25% cholesterol and 50% free fatty acid Sara mites are necessary for their water retention capacity and adding them to a skincare product help provide replenishing and restorative benefits love that for us. Next glycerin you see glycerin a bunch in skincare anything it's one of those hoax ingredients it's actually really not. glycerin is a skin replenishing and skin restoring ingredient meaning it's subsequently found naturally in skin and helps establish a normal balance and hydration. It helps maintain healthy looking skin defending against dryness and working to maintain moisture levels. glycerin is a master at hydration works best when combined with other a pleasure and a million ingredients. Congratulations We made it to set night eye cream. I have not found a magical eye cream that I think is so much better than a moisturizer. I do go through phases with them though. So I'm not recommending anyone for using one and in my 10 steps getting hurt. care routine I would use one Remember to always use your ring finger it gives us pressure to very dainty gentle skin under there and if you want to have more fun look up some cooling ipaddress to use either the reusable ones or single use. I have a bunch of the single use ones I need to finish before I use the more sustainable ones but they're really fun and just nice little pick me up in a treat yourself moment. And finally we have stepped down lips lip balm lip mask, use them they're fun. Typically a lot of lip products you will see how vitamin E for their hydrating amoliant antioxidant benefits. But the big thing with loves is Don't forget to exfoliate your lifts they need to be sloughed off like everything else, especially in the winter. I go from using like a cute little chapstick during the year to using heavy duty lip masks in the winter and holy crap do they save my butt, especially with the heat on all the time and all the way in my allergies? Ooh, my lips are so dang cracked, find a lip mask, stick with it, share it, don't be greedy. share it with everyone once you found the magic ingredients congratulation to all made it through my 10 step Korean skincare routine I really did run through the basics. Although that might be surprising. I do know much more and I am more than willing to help anyone along who's ready to start their skincare journey or add any products into it. I will say I am aware I did not suggest and or recommend any specific products because I feel that I don't know anyone enough to just kind of throw out some generic rules like oh for oily skin do this for dry skin use this brands market their skincare in accordance to the audience with the ingredients they're using. And thankfully, consumers are becoming more and more aware of what they're putting in their skin, which is why I focused on the ingredient list so you can look for things that if you're looking for something brightening, you'll look for something filled with antioxidants, vitamin C mocca. Another great antioxidant and it's also great for hydrating and rosacea. Or if you want something hydrating hyaluronic acid plumping effects. If you feel like you're seeing a wrinkle here or there that you're not ready for those crow's feet retinol, and you can find products on the market that fit if you do have any more specific questions, feel free to again message me at an omni pod. And I'm more than willing to help but I didn't want to recommend things on a general basis. I'd rather what everyone just hear what the ingredients are and find products that fit their needs and kind of cocktail it themselves. But now onto the universal fun things who you need these tools? No. Are they fun for all spa knights and occasionally have their use? Heck yes. Let's start off with the Jade roll. These have been come very popular over the past few years is basically like a piece of Jade on kind of like a paint roller and you can use it and you roll it on your face that helps to de puff helps to awake in your face best when put in the fridge because then it's cold and so it shrinking your pores up getting rid of the help with lymphatic drainage. Something similar is a spoon, you can literally put spoons into the fridge and it will give a similar facial massage help drain your face, brighten your eyes hope do you puff all those great things. And then on the boozier more spot and we have facial Globes, these look very cool, very circular. They're glass. They're pretty heavy, very luxurious. But spoons basically do the same thing. And then we have a washer, which is a little piece of Jade or courts or something kinda like it's like a stone rock ish shape and it's flat and it basically has edges and those edges can really get in there to help with the drainage help shape the jawline and other areas, the cheekbones, you can really get in kind of places to help really drain and massage your face, which would be my preference of all those tools. I do want all of them if we're going to be completely honest. But if I can only have one on my deserted island, I'll take the guasha then dermaplaning What the heck is dermaplaning and why is everyone talking about just getting dermaplaning is the act of shaving your face and no you don't use the razor you use on your legs or anywhere else on this. They're very, very, very, very, very fine and very, very, very many razors just slightly pull the skin a little bit taut. Don't touch just pull it tilts a little bit taut. Shave in the direction of the hair one cheek at a time and make sure to moisturize your skin afterward I would recommend steaming your face first or doing it after a shower because then your pores are open you shave it you moisturize it then you maybe even you rub some ice on it if it can be a little sensitive and then close your pores back up.
It gets rid of the peach fuzz is not a necessity but I know a lot of people do like to do it. The one misconception with it that I would like to just cut out now as your hair will not grow back thicker and longer and darker hair is on its natural growing cycle at different times. When you shave your face or shave your leg or shave anything you are changing the cycle of growth and therefore more hairs will be shown at the same time than they would during their normal cycle because remember, the hair grows and it grows and grows and grows and then to see their shave and it falls off. We lose 100 pieces of hair from our head a day. So think about that. Right? will not grow back thicker and darker from shaving your face but it will grow back in the same time so you might think it's growing back thicker and darker but just trust me it's enough. Next we have micro needling. This always looked fun to me. I have not tried this one yet but I really want to it's basically similar to a jade roller, it's a roller with a bunch of little needles on it and you roll it over your face and it has tiny little micro tears on like the walnut scrub. This is the kind of micro tear and it basically helps produce collagen by having your skin heal itself and pumped your skin backup additionally helps all those products gotten deeper, a little less scary. I'm not going to recommend it necessarily but if anyone's tried it please dm us or comment or something so I can get a first hand account of what this is like. And then we have the foreo and the Clarisonic both fun cleansing brushes that have been around I remember when the Clarisonic Mia was all arranged in like 2013 no sorry 2009 with the original YouTubers, everyone was getting the Clarisonic Mia it was the new one it was cute. It came in a mint shirt kind of pink and oh nice lavender color all the rage I had a few of the Russell's used to pretty cute song for a few months out of it honestly never got back into it. But if it's gonna help promote you washing your face 10 out of 10 just no it does not exfoli it just helps to get a deeper clean but for me it was too much of a hassle and the end then we have the foria which is similar to a Clarisonic except it's a silicone based product so none of it gets absorbed into the Brussels like Clarisonic Additionally it could be deemed as more sanitary because you can wash the whole thing I have not tried to foreo but it has a similar thing where it oscillates on your skin to help give it a deeper clean then we have the really fun device which is the new face which gives your skin a little mini facial with a microcurrent I've used it a few times I was fortunate enough to get one I can't really see a huge difference but again didn't really commit it basically shocks your face a little bit I use the under eye one once holy crap it felt like I had what I assume like a Botox session would feel like really cool really recommend it is a little bit scary because you're basically putting on gel similar to if you were getting an older down and then running this machine over and if you don't have the gel on you can feel basically electrocuting your face but it's cool and definitely you get the tightening effect if you're looking for something before deciding whether you want to go under the knife as one would say definitely worth looking into. And I have a mini version as well. Now let's get into kind of the elephant in the room. The section I didn't even really go into acne acne just sucks but what can we just say that and for me it was a big misconception that once you turn 18 acne just went away because it felt like everyone during Proactiv commercials talked about like their teen years and things that were gone as kid not like once you go on to an adult once you were an adult it just disappeared kind of like your problems. Duty. Sorry, I'm not going to tell you completely How to Get Rid of Acne because there are 16 types of acne according to Web MD and there are a lot of reasons some things I know that people have said have been known to help are one your diet cutting out oil and salty foods for some people dairy and the hormones and dairy can do it. So those are just a few things to try. And if you have a pimple on the surface, some things to try are pimple patches. They're fun. They're trendy, they're cool. There are two main types hydrocolloid, which were actually meant to help heal wounds and they help skin heal from the inside out enhancing the natural process and they absorb excess food surrounding you can actually save money by buying hydrocolloid band aids and cutting them over cutting them instead of using a pimple patch but you didn't hear that for me. Another one is a micro dark these are frickin expensive and I bought them to try and I have not had a pimple worthy enough one of these patches which cost me like $10 patch Yes, yes, they
were expensive, but my money is your review here now. So you're welcome. A micro dark patch is a little prickly thing that basically you put on top of your pimples similar to the other side but it kind of picks you and it has all of these good nice nutrient fill ingredients that go deep deep deep into your skin and draw it out from their hydrocolloid patches are kind of better when that pinball either did pop or the Pop, pop versus the Microdot can help kind of when you feel it coming on or when it's getting red before it's fully grown, as all say additionally a lot of people like sulfur kind of things. I've even heard toothpaste works, a clay mask you can use as a spot treatment things to kind of draw the area out and do do do do do not pick up whatever you're going to do. However, if you really really really really really really need to wash your hands, put a damp washcloth over the area then moisturize and ideally put like a nice hydrating serum or a cucumber or something or other ice then don't touch it. You don't want it to leave a dark spot. I know I went over a lot and there's a lot more I could go into but I'm going to kind of end it on some short little fun facts about skincare and about things just to be a little bit aware of First of all, similarly to ingredients on a food packaging after about the first five to seven ingredients efficacy in the ingredient goes down to less than 1% and brands. can reorder those in whatever they want. Meaning because the percentage is so low if the fragrance was technically going to be a little bit higher than the hyaluronic acid, they can flip the order so it looks like fragrance is way way at the bottom and how ironic is way way at the top but if it's after that first marker like five to the degree it doesn't really matter. Another thing to look out for is when water is the number one ingredient because water depending on where it's from, doesn't do much and it just dilutes all of the great ingredients you're using. So if water is your first ingredient, don't not buy the product but be aware that a lot of the product you're getting is not as strong as you might expect. Similarly to that a product with more ingredients you might think is good because I have hyaluronic acid and vitamin C and retinol and I sodomite and all the things but it also means there's less of all the things when there are more ingredients when there's less ingredients it means they're all stronger. So just be mindful of that as well. expiration dates, let's talk about them. They exist they start the second you open a product there's typically a little jar icon that we're all learning about it's a 612 24 months those are the only ones I've seen so far up there those three months I believe use them less than them take a picture set a reminder in your calendar where they are for you after you do do not use expired products. It's not worth it buy a drugstore alternative if you can't go back and afford that boozy will marry your buying don't use expired products. Next I know I went through a bunch of ingredients and a bunch of skincare to do a quick little cheat for it all is if you have like six skincare ingredients you're a crap what do I start with what Ajay say because of course I'm sure that's what you're thinking about. Then is the thickest the thinner the product, the deeper will go down into your skin which is what you want. So kind of your thinner things like your tone or your essence or serum oil go before your moisturizer because your moisturizer is thicker and will kind of seal all of that goodness into your skin. versus if you start with moisturizer all of the other things can't get down to those deeper layers of your skin. Another little sad thing when you're using a lot of these skincare ingredients it's not to treat what you see what you see has been developing through that 28 day cell turnover cycle if not longer so if you see a dark spot you must have it must have been growing and darken in a while for you to see it now on the top layer as much as we want to treat what we can see you're really treating for the skin underneath and making it for when this layer does slough off there's a kind of the skin underneath is porous glowy dewy all the great things if this encourages you or scares you or whatever makes you want to go buy a crap ton of skincare don't one ingredient at a time if whatever you're using is working for you and you'd like to incorporate change grow your skincare routine one ingredient one product at a time I made the mistake of trying a whole new routine breaking out and not knowing what the heck caused it
try our product for a week. See if it's a year and a half before continuing into more products then you will know if you have a whole routine that can work for you. If you ever do want to stray you can always go back to that original Solid Star VIP products. I know I said I wasn't done with ingredients but I kind of lied. I'd like to speak for a quick second about alcohols. Alcohol in skincare typically gets a bad rap for denatured alcohol or SD alcohol is a propyl alcohol these are rubbing alcohol these are hand sanitizer right now these ingredients are very coveted but not on your skincare. These alcohols are volatile and can give a quick drying finish and immediately decrease the skin and feel lightweight but they're very drying and stripping and they kind of just hurt your skin in the long run. Not worth it. But there are fatty alcohols which you might see in a lot of moisturizing projects such as their thermal alcohol stearyl alcohol, ethyl alcohol. These ingredients are great for dry skin. They're fatty alcohols that have that help give a nice texture and they're actually beneficial to dry skin so making sure to know the difference of it's a good alcohol Sara tall, sterile settle versus STI support bro anything you would see in a hand sanitizer stick away from on your face. And now my last little soapbox TED Talk moment clean beauty clean skincare means just as much as natural natural brand, don't even mean cruelty free which I was shocked amazed stunned fuzzles all the feelings about and so disappointed
when I figured out about so many brands I used to love that I stopped using clean beauty is a way for you to think you're using great things and not really kind of look into it which is why I'm such an ingredient person clean doesn't necessarily mean much. Some brands when they say clean, it means they're cruelty free. So that means vegan some it means they only use natural fragrances but again even essential oils can be bad for sensitive skin for some brands. That means they're gluten free, literally clean beauty and is a very misconstruing term. There are some brands that I love and I try to stick to brands that say clean but I don't use them because they say clean I use them because they have a bunch of things and they happen to have that stamp So please just be aware when you buy something that you think is clean it one might not be cruelty free and two, they could be just trying to sell you something to make you think you're using some of the good one. It's really not nearly as good as they say clean beauty is kind of the new natural and doesn't carry very much weight. I know I just went over a lot. There's going to be links for everything and feel free to ask me any questions like I've already said. And in terms of things businesses, I love to listen to shout out to college choice ingredient dictionary. That's honestly when I was going through a lot of these things where I confirmed my knowledge to make sure I was giving accurate information. It's great, it breaks down everything. Another source I love is ew g.org eW g stands for the Environmental Working Group. You can type in products you own want to buy, look into buying and they break down at by ingredient. So you're able to see what you're putting on your skin whether it's good, whether it's bad, whether it'll fit what irritants it has, what to be aware of those are both great resources, as well as the company credo beauty c r e d o beauty our definition serves as the pillar for credo clean beauty standards, which guides our companies 130 Brand Partners and the bellwether for an entire movement. So safety, what do we know about the safety of the ingredients? Does it present a risk to the user or to the environment? Whether by itself or is used in a beauty product sourcing is the ingredient sourced from nature? Is it synthetic or does it or is it some combination? sustainability How is this ingredient grown in mind or made ethics is the ingredients into unfair labor condition or wages and transparency, transparency around ingredients or sitting purity and composition as well as the suppliers and the brand principle processi is crucial to clean I was told by a toxicologist who came into my work one day that they have a panel of doctors and dermatologists and like real professional like toxicologists, people who work for them on their board. So it's not just telling you kind of the chemistry it's telling you kind of like the toxins and then as I read there have a big focus and where their products are from how they're sourced the efficacy the amount of it so I definitely recommend looking into them for your new products or things they can be a bit more expensive, but they're a lot cheaper than any surgery or any facial you might want to get and then in terms of people I love to watch so for people I love First we have skincare by Hiram who's blown up over quarantine with his skincare routines reviewing and informing people at a very basic level. He does not have a degree in metrology or chemistry or toxicology or anything he similarly to me just much more has a big passion in his research and has talked to these expert but he himself is not an expert in the space just be wherever in watching his tech talks or videos that he's a good entry point but he shouldn't be the final destination. Then we have Alisha Yoon who is the founder of a skincare brand peach and Lily she started the brand similar way to credo there's a big no list of ingredients the brand doesn't have it's one of my I will say favorite skincare brands. They have a bunch of great things like matcha nice and mine peach actually really inexpensive nice ingredients and everything is made in South Korea the technology they have which is so much beyond what we have in the US so I love looking her and she also talks a lot about our products ingredients as well as other products ingredients as well as how to give yourself a great lymphatic facial massage on her Instagram so I highly recommend looking to her then we have Jackie is known for being mostly a makeup and beauty vlogger on YouTube, she actually is a big fan of skincare I loved watching her Harper's Bazaar one and she gives really great advice especially for those who have deeper darker skin tone. She still does a good 12 step Korean skincare routine but some products are a little bit different because products do differ depending on your skin tone. And last but not least we have Dr. vinita return the hyperpigmentation clinic I found her on YouTube and immediately sent her to Angela she focuses on people with medium to deeper skin tones and how they need different skincare products and things react differently then on to more fair skin tones not only just skin tones, but like
different ethnicities need different things. For instance, people of color who have deeper skin tones who pick or have a pimple arousing are more likely to have a darker dark spot afterwards than someone who is more fair skin. So the ingredients to treat are different. So she's a great resource. All of them will be linked down
Unknown Speaker 44:33
I know I geeked out a bit this is some of my favorite stuff to talk about. I hope you learned something. I hope please buy a sunscreen please use a sunscreen. This is your daily reminder that sunscreen is really important and I will have a link with all of the resources I use in this episode. I would not want to claim to do this myself. We don't stand plagiarism over here and again, feel free to message me or anything. If you need any Or you'd like to hear anything more about our takes on makeup or more skincare questions or hair care anything it's one of as you can see, one of my most fun things I can talk about fur on and on and on. And now for my first and hopefully last time ever having to read the intro. Thank you for listening to this week of it on your products grab your coffee will and don't forget to rate download and subscribe on iTunes, Spotify or wherever you get your podcasts. As always, where you lead will follow. So head over to @inomniapod on Instagram and let us know what your favorite skincare products are and if there are any product you'd like us to buy
Transcribed by https://otter.ai
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